Common Roofing Problems

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

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When roof shingles are not installed effectively, you may find that they raise, leakage, or even fall off during the next windstorm. This kind of error can cost you more cash in the long-run. There are likewise certain security concerns to be aware of when performing Do It Yourself roof repair work.

A roofing system repair work can end up being even more unsafe if you try to perform a repair when it is windy, rainy, or when the roofing is slick with damp leaves or debris. Transporting heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can likewise present a security risk. Other safety concerns come from using unknown products or devices.

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When you choose to go the DIY path with your roof repair work, you not only risk losing money however also your valuable time and energy. Changing shingles on your roof is effort that can take hours and even days, depending on the level of the damage. As the products are large, heavy, and hard to navigate, replacing roof shingles can be tough on the body.

It can be annoying to discover loose shingles tossed about your backyard after a storm. However, this is a common issue that has a relatively easy fix. If your roofing is in otherwise great condition, simply the harmed section itself can be replaced to avoid water from permeating under the adjacent shingles.

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For more information on how to fix roofing shingles blown off by a storm or to set up a roof inspection, contact our professional roofing system repair work professionals at Beyond Exteriors today. asphalt roof shingles.

There are 2 approaches by which shingles are connected to a roofing system: roof nails or adhesive strips. Typically roof nails have brief shanks, sharp points, and broad, flat heads that allow them to permeate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when attached, produces a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle below it.

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It's good that the roofing system is not dripping (you didn't mention that) however incorrect installation will create leakages in the future. So, confirming a couple of crucial items and after that formally informing your builder (by accredited, return receipt mail) of incorrect setup will protect your rights. I 'd inspect the following: Variety of nails in each shingle: Each roofing manufacturer needs a particular variety of nails into each shingle, normally 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 miles per hour winds would require 5 nails per shingle.) You'll discover this info on each wrapper around each package of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can find it on the maker's site. If you do not know the name of the manufacturer, call the builder. Nail Placement: I see this wrong on a great deal of jobs.

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Nails should be above the top of the cut out in the 3-tab shingle, but about 1" listed below the mastic strip. Most roofing professionals wish to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for two reasons: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roofing system instead of 8 nails, and b) it produces a little dip in the shingle due to the fact that it causes the shingle to bend down over the top edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is putting a quarter size dab of roofing mastic "by hand" under each shingle. Nevertheless, many roof producers require hand tabbing "if the shingles have actually not self-sealed in an adequate time." This is a bit arbitrary, but "enough time" suggests "within the assurance duration." (You can get that validated by the roof maker.) So, the way to evaluate this is to go up on the roof and attempt to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (asphalt roof shingles).

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The roofer will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That suggests they expect the sun heating the shingle up until it sticks to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it might not get warm enough in your location or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

The majority of roofing contractors will extend that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That gives the opportunity for the wind to raise more of the shingle and develops inappropriate nailing, (missing out on the top of the lower shingle, and so on) Too short of nails: Nails ought to totally permeate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roof sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think.